Beer Man is a weekly profile of beers from across the country and around the world.
This week: Genesee Double Bock
Genesee Brewing Co., Rochester, N.Y.
This week features a doppelbock that is as fine an example of the style as I’ve ever had.
Genesee brewers discovered a logbook last year dating from the late 1930s that referenced the original 1878 recipe for a Genesee bock beer. They were already making a regular bock and the recipe inspired them to make a companion doppelbock.
The brewery’s Double Bock starts off with a classic color — a crystal clear body and light brown with bright red highlights. It looks good right off the bat. Although the tan head dissipated quickly, a creamy layer floated on top of the beer for the rest of the sampling.
The aroma was of fresh grain, biscuits, grassy hops and sweet caramel malt. My actual tasting of the beer was delayed as I spent a couple of minutes enjoying the fragrance.
The flavor mirrored the aroma, with the addition of dark German and toasted malts, and the caramel not as pronounced or sweet, but still present in a well-balanced way. Although the beer’s color would indicate the use of some chocolate malt, it seems it is there more for balance than flavor.
The Double Bock had a classic lager profile — well carbonated and crisp — yet it still left a creamy mouthfeel. There was a slight sharpness in the background and a dry, clean finish. It drank lighter than its 7% ABV would indicate, but did not seem thin.
The richness and quality of the malts really make this doppelbock shine, although they are not overpowering.
The only drawback of Double Bock is its limited distribution. Although Genesee distributes in many states, Double Bock is only being offered in New York, Ohio and Pennsylvania. The brewery’s Beer Finder link is here.
Genesee’s original Bock Beer (5.2% ABV) did not fare as well in comparison. Technically, it is well made with the appropriate color, head, carbonation, etc., but it was marked by an extreme sharpness in the taste and a lemony background that overpowered the malt.
Many beers are available only regionally. Check the brewer's website, which often contains information on product availability by mail. Contact Todd Haefer at beerman@postcrescent.com. To read previous Beer Man columns, click here.
